Composed of a structured Poly Neoprene Blend, the jacket is designed to look like ‘cardpaper’ an unconventional material that seems so delicate but deceivingly the material is so rigid in that basically stands up on its own. From Autumn Winter 2009 by Kostas Murkudis this season he focused on using distinctive fabrics to create a unique form, like a cocoon around the body. In a beautiful duck egg blue colour, it features a high zipped neck with front double zips. Seam side pockets, one large chest pocket, ‘web’ convertible zip cuffs with a unique velcro synch system to the front of the jacket that can create a unique bubble shape.

There is only one of these jackets made. Composed of a metal fibre blend with Leather panelling under the arms. It features a futuristic style with ‘stacked’ 3D pockets. With thick cotton ribbing creating an incredible silhouette in a beautiful ivory/sage colour combination. From the brand Corpo Nove that made exclusively rare & innovative garments with unique design properties. Started in 1996 by ex-journalist rederico pagliai with the objective of injecting new viewpoints and ways of operating into the world of fashion. since its founding, this goal has translated into research and communication with partners as diverse and unlikely as NASA and the European space agency. The company is made up of two connected halves (Research) ‘grado zero espace’ whose task it is to discover and experiment with new materials and their potential applications & the other half (Creative) ‘Corpo Nove’ headed by designer Mauro taliani who produces garments. The brand is more like a laboratory rather than a traditional couture house. One of the first garments produced by corpo nove lwas one of the first collaborations with NASA. They produced the (Absolute Zero Jacket) made of (Aerogel). This smoky-blue, siticon-based solid has a porous sponge-like structure and is one of the lightest substances on earth, 1,000 times less dense than glass. in 1999, it was used to insulate the mars pathfinder. Because of Aerogel’s beneficial applications for extreme weather or atmospheric conditions, such as the Arctic circle or outer space. Corpo Nove sewed bags of powdered Aerogel between two layers of fabric to create an incredibly warm and ingeniously lightweight outdoor coat.

This jacket was featured on the SS01 Mens Runway in an orange leather. It features a mobility focused design, with dual access 3D ‘Stacked’ pockets and a unique button down neck construction with a pull that bunches the collar. Composed of an incredible stretch-blend crushed Cotton / Elastic which has anti-crease properties.

Designed by Roberto Menichetti after he had left Burberry, he worked briefly on the Jil Sander design team & came into founding his namesake brand ‘Menichetti’. This is in collaboration with Brema a famous biking & motocross brand. This specific jacket is part of the motocross inspired casual apparel line released alongside the motocross suits. Using technical materials & practical elements to Menichetti’s distinctive look. Featuring cargo utility pockets throughout including a ‘backpack’ cargo ‘stacked’ 3D pocket. With a synch system on the back, to snatch the waist. With front asymmetric chest ‘panel pockets’ , ventilation zips , velcro cuffs & dual popper & zipper pockets. Composed of a cotton,nylon blend in a beautiful khaki sage colour. A very rare jacket to come across.

Designed by Jeff Griffin, in this jacket he experimented fusing travel-wear elements to the pre-existing Griffin identity, known for its British grit/ technically led fashion outerwear for the modern urban adventurer. The jacket features a bag integrated to the back design, with two protruding ‘egg’ shaped pockets to the front (similar to Mandarina Duck (egg cell) pockets). Along with elbow darted articulation, cut to follow the natural curvature of a resting arm. Button closures under each arm to adjust the drape of the jacket. Finishing of with embroidered Griffin ♡ to back of the back & interior Parka Rock Patch. Manufactured In Italy-combat tailored-engineered in London

A discerning point of Yamamoto's Autumn Winter 2004 collection were the zipper and buckled hardware that modernized his traditional silhouettes. Featuring a back-zip that opens up to the interior of the jacket and another on the interior of the right arm

From the Iconic Gucci by Tom Ford Menswear Fall Winter 2000 Goose-Down Biker Jacket made from ‘Articulated’ down filled pipingg. This is a puffer variant to our previously posted orange leather featured in campaigns & on the runway. Composed of a thick pearly tan canvas nylon with goose down quilted ‘articulated piping’ creating a unique & structured look. It’s extremely well cut with webbed cuffs & a dual zipper. With integrated piping pockets a neck pop-button closure & hidden stash pockets inside the chest.

From the Iconic era of Tom Ford at Gucci, this FW00 Biker Jacket is made as a puffer version to our previous post, the runway quilted leather.(slide3/6) composed of a thick canvas nylon with goose down quilted piping creating a unique & structured look. It’s extremely well cut with webbed cuffs & a dual zipper, integrated piping pockets, neck pop-button closure & hidden stash pockets inside chest.

This item featured on the FW00 Runway from Naoki Takizawa’s third ever showing for Issey Miyake, Takizawa opted for a more utilitarian look than his two previous shows, placing a big emphasis on functionality. The runway was heavily inspired by the theme of travelling, & was Issey Miyake’s answer to other travel focused brands like Samsonite & Mandarina Duck. Featuring ‘Modular Pack-Pockets’ which reverse to the outside hence the ‘X-RAY’ name. Composed of an extremely rigid Nylon Thinsulate Fabric that can literally stand up on its own. With pockets & harness straps dotted throughout the jacket to improve the garments practicality & fit. With an integrated retractable hood that’s attached to a separate compartment in the neck, the hood is held by a thick cotton band & tucks away fully into the back neck compartment, creating a pillow for the wearers head.

From Calvin Klein Collection, a line that experimented with cuts & materials with the highest quality. Featuring an extremely unique Mesh layered fabric, consisting of a Nylon Base, White Rubber mesh & Black Nylon Mesh. This special & technical fabric layering creates a beautiful liquidised shimmer, letting light travel around the body in unique forms. With a quilted body & sleeves, cut in a cropped boxy shape, hidden seam-lined pockets & a flap that buttons to cover the main zipper.

From the iconic Fall Winter 2001 Neil Barrett season that showcased an impressive variety of technical/functional garments with unique design properties. Jackets with inbuilt bag straps, vests with whistles, hoods with glasses & a mixture of bags for practical accessories such as this ‘Umbrella Holster’ as well as a ‘gun holster’ & ‘camera/phone bag’ all composed of a structured 100% leather that holds its shape. with a nylon strap, velcro fasten & heavy duty chrome hardware clips.

From Roberto Menichetti’s last season at Burberry Featuring a ‘stretch’ back yoke that showcases during movement. With a front zipper hidden by a flap, tacked down by buttons. With sleeves that form to the natural curvature of the arm, with panel articulation to the sleeves & an asymmetric back zipper that allows for room around the waist.

This item is from a rare line of Calvin Klein labeled Collection, specifically featuring Runway/Sample items that focus on innovation, minimalist clean cuts & high quality details. The jacket features dual access ‘stacked’ front pockets which have both top down open access & side zipped access. The sleeves are cut in a way that follows the natural curvature of the arm, with a wide chest area that tapers down towards the waist, creating a unique drape to its form. It also has bridged ‘RiRi’ zipper that reverse’s the jacket to a stone wash colour, with a high V cut neck that follows through to create the hood.

Worn in the iconic Burberry ‘Motocross’ Campaign Published In March 1999. The jacket marks a pivotal moment in Burberrys history, transitioning from traditional British attire to more modern minimalist apparel. The jacket features 3D 6 pockets that protrude from the jacket, layered with flat pockets stacked, underneath. With a belt synching system & a large ‘modular’ back vent that improves the garments mobility. Composed of a stretchy cotton/elastane blend, following Menichetti’s mobility & functional focused design language. With dual zippers enclosed in overlapping velcro flaps, the neck also features this overlapping velcro closure.

Burberry Prorsum SS00 designed by Roberto Menichetti. A gorgeous example of Menichetti’s material innovation for Burberry. This jacket is crafted with a time-worn look crushed leather, inspired by an old rugby ball Menichetti found. It also features articulated elbows & crushed cotton stretch panelling around the garment that exposes with movement-following the mobility focused design of Menichetti’s work, with hand finished detailings throughout.

Designed alongside the Emporio Armani FW99 show, this piece shows clear futuristic vision in the Armani Jeans label. Composed of a Brushed Nylon that feels like thick paper with custom aluminium hardware poppers & oversized zipper. Armani Worked on these items personally & combined his tailoring skills with modern fabrics & futuristic style, as seen on the FW99 Runway (slide 5) trench with similar design features. The last slide also shows the Paper nylon fabric & futuristic style of this trench used on a bag on the runway. This feels like your wearing a duvet, But looks like you came off the runway!

From Neil Barrett SS2002 collection that featured utility & functionality driven design. Garments with boxy cuts, clean lines with simple minimalist details. Using his previous work experience at Gucci & Prada working with quality materials & tailoring. This collection showcased some of his best work in our opinion. This jacket is pure minimalist luxury, composed of structured cotton, lightly waxed. Featuring a flap front chest pocket that is flush to the body, with double zippers, two seamless side pockets & a key loop at the bottom left for practical use or accessories. Following the functional design elements of this season.

From New York Industrie AW00, the brand is relatively unknown apart from the Kostas Murkudis era. In the late 90s-early 00s the brand produced some amazing pieces such as transformable garments, modern minimalist cuts & unique fabric innovations. This jacket features an oversized (Ninja) hood that is cut to arch over the head, similar to vexed but less obvious. It’s made out of Wool/Spandex panels that are sewn seamlessly to the exterior around the body, with slim tubular cut arms. It has dual zippers, with excess fabric that covers the zippers finishing the seamless look. With seam side pockets, silk lining & an incredible synch mechanism on the sleeves. (slide 9) Buttons on the wrist & an inner piece of fabric with button holes that wraps around the wrist , for an adjustable fit. The fabric composition is extremely unique. A blend of traditional fabric (wool) & a sportier fabric (spandex). Combining these produces an elegant drape/flow to the jacket with a functional stretch. Staff International was running NYI at this time, not Kostas this is a largely overlooked time of New York Industrie as Kostas name is not attached. The deisghner for this season remains unknown…