Burberry Prorsum SS00 designed by Roberto Menichetti. A gorgeous example of Menichetti’s material innovation for Burberry. This jacket is crafted with a time-worn look crushed leather, inspired by an old rugby ball Menichetti found. It also features articulated elbows & crushed cotton stretch panelling around the garment that exposes with movement-following the mobility focused design of Menichetti’s work, with hand finished detailings throughout.

From New York Industrie AW00, the brand is relatively unknown apart from the Kostas Murkudis era. In the late 90s-early 00s the brand produced some amazing pieces such as transformable garments, modern minimalist cuts & unique fabric innovations. This jacket features an oversized (Ninja) hood that is cut to arch over the head, similar to vexed but less obvious. It’s made out of Wool/Spandex panels that are sewn seamlessly to the exterior around the body, with slim tubular cut arms. It has dual zippers, with excess fabric that covers the zippers finishing the seamless look. With seam side pockets, silk lining & an incredible synch mechanism on the sleeves. (slide 9) Buttons on the wrist & an inner piece of fabric with button holes that wraps around the wrist , for an adjustable fit. The fabric composition is extremely unique. A blend of traditional fabric (wool) & a sportier fabric (spandex). Combining these produces an elegant drape/flow to the jacket with a functional stretch. Staff International was running NYI at this time, not Kostas this is a largely overlooked time of New York Industrie as Kostas name is not attached. The deisghner for this season remains unknown…

From Neil Barrett SS2002 collection that featured utility & functionality driven design. Garments with boxy cuts, clean lines with simple minimalist details. Using his previous work experience at Gucci & Prada working with quality materials & tailoring. This collection showcased some of his best work in our opinion. This jacket is pure minimalist luxury, composed of structured cotton, lightly waxed. Featuring a flap front chest pocket that is flush to the body, with double zippers, two seamless side pockets & a key loop at the bottom left for practical use or accessories. Following the functional design elements of this season.

Designed by Tom Ford for Gucci. This jacket features ‘bag loops’ on each shoulder. Originally paying homage to military jackets that held guns. This functional design detail acts as a secure way to carry bags. Composed of the finest cotton canvas in a dusky sand colour, it’s cut with a wide boxy body & has Gucci engraved hardware throughout. A classic, timeless, well cut & well designed garment.

Designed alongside the Emporio Armani FW99 show, this piece shows clear futuristic vision in the Armani Jeans label. Composed of a Brushed Nylon that feels like thick paper with custom aluminium hardware poppers & oversized zipper. Armani Worked on these items personally & combined his tailoring skills with modern fabrics & futuristic style, as seen on the FW99 Runway (slide 5) trench with similar design features. The last slide also shows the Paper nylon fabric & futuristic style of this trench used on a bag on the runway. This feels like your wearing a duvet, But looks like you came off the runway!

This is a sample item that never got to production. During this era of Balenciaga, Nicolas was really experimental with cuts & material as shown in this piece. Along with his magnetic closures & futuristic space age design language. The jacket composition is an amazing liquidised nylon, it’s super glossy & wet looking that creates a great light spectacle. It features seamless construction, with cut out pockets at upper chest & seam zip pockets at the waist. There is a collar zipper to create a hollow for the chin.

From the Iconic Gucci by Tom Ford Fall Winter 2000 Goose-Down Biker Jacket with Buckle to each side that can use to restrict movement like a Strait Jacket made from ‘Articulated’ down filled pipings. This is a puffer variant the orange leather featured in popular Gucci campaigns & on the runway. Composed of a perfect Cotton Nylon blend with goose down quilted ‘articulated piping’ creating a unique & structured look.

This is a rare prototype Virgil was working on that never made it to runway or production! This features an “Expandable” hem converting from a synched ski pant into a wide leg trouser. It has a LV Belt closure Inbuilt into the waist, with raised rubberised logos that were used as a reference for LV sneaker design, with angular “web” seams running throughout. Made of a soft brushed Matt nylon with a paper feeling to it & a thin down creating a structured bubble shape. With a engraved “LV” zipper & have a simple string tag inside with the date of sampling.

This jacket packs down into a bag, it features a strap hidden in a front pocket allowing the jacket to invert inside of the pocket & tuck down into a wearable bag. The strap is a great integrated system which can be styled many ways… wrap round the waist to create a unique more feminine silhouette to a men’s jacket, or to wear around the neck or across the body to create more asymmetrical looks. Designed by Tom Ford for Gucci’s Spring Summer 1999, this season featured sportier looks/fabrics.

Menichetti’s term, from 1998-2001, despite his brief time at the brand, the Italian-American designer managed to jumpstart Burberry’s high fashion credentials. His designs for ‘Prorsum Collection’ spilled over to after his last 2001 collection at the brand. The fabric tags remains the same to Prorsum as well as the cut, general design style & zippers. This jacket is from Burberry London by Roberto Menichetti, featuring panels of Cotton/Nylon Blend that create a scooped shape to the jacket. Fabric covers the main zipper with velcro striped the front. A hidden hood tucks away into the neck, with seam lines that follow the natural curvature on the shoulder-arm, following Menichetti’s mobility focused design language.

This jacket packs down into a bag, it features a strap hidden in a front pocket allowing the jacket to invert inside of the pocket & tuck down into a wearable bag. The strap is a great integrated system which can be styled many ways… wrap round the waist to create a unique more feminine silhouette to a men’s jacket, or to wear around the neck or across the body to create more asymmetrical looks. Designed by Tom Ford for Gucci’s Spring Summer 1999, this season featured sportier looks/fabrics.

A extremely unique 80s Italian Bomber, made in Italy. This is like 80s Issey Miyake Meets 80s Kathrine Hammett. Featuring a double layered neck, double layered waist band & integrated Wool Woven directly into the jacket. Composed of a crushed cotton similar to Menichetti with Burberry. It also Hammett style utility pockets at the front & the back has bat wing style panels similar to 80s issey. This could easily be an early reference point for either brands.

An unseen piece of Mandarina Duck from the early 00s, they’re approach to design & material innovation was fresh & futuristic. The jacket features double sided poppers as the main closure & cuffs, making the jacket fully reversible. Composed of a coated cotton with one side being more frosty than the other. A very interesting design detail is the exposed ‘frayed seams’ creating tasseling around the jacket which displays when in movement.