This item featured on the FW00 Runway from Naoki Takizawa’s third ever showing for Issey Miyake, Takizawa opted for a more utilitarian look than his two previous shows, placing a big emphasis on functionality. The runway was heavily inspired by the theme of travelling, & was Issey Miyake’s answer to other travel focused brands like Samsonite & Mandarina Duck. Featuring ‘Modular Pack-Pockets’ which reverse to the outside hence the ‘X-RAY’ name. Composed of an extremely rigid Nylon Thinsulate Fabric that can literally stand up on its own. With pockets & harness straps dotted throughout the jacket to improve the garments practicality & fit. With an integrated retractable hood that’s attached to a separate compartment in the neck, the hood is held by a thick cotton band & tucks away fully into the back neck compartment, creating a pillow for the wearers head.

Menichetti’s term, from 1998-2001, despite his brief time at the brand, the Italian-American designer managed to jumpstart Burberry’s high fashion credentials. His designs for ‘Prorsum Collection’ spilled over to after his last 2001 collection at the brand. The fabric tags remains the same to Prorsum as well as the cut, general design style & zippers. This jacket is from Burberry London by Roberto Menichetti, featuring panels of Cotton/Nylon Blend that create a scooped shape to the jacket. Fabric covers the main zipper with velcro striped the front. A hidden hood tucks away into the neck, with seam lines that follow the natural curvature on the shoulder-arm, following Menichetti’s mobility focused design language.

From Calvin Klein Collection, a line that experimented with cuts & materials with the highest quality. Featuring an extremely unique Mesh layered fabric, consisting of a Nylon Base, White Rubber mesh & Black Nylon Mesh. This special & technical fabric layering creates a beautiful liquidised shimmer, letting light travel around the body in unique forms. With a quilted body & sleeves, cut in a cropped boxy shape, hidden seam-lined pockets & a flap that buttons to cover the main zipper.

This item is from a rare line of Calvin Klein labeled Collection, specifically featuring Runway/Sample items that focus on innovation, minimalist clean cuts & high quality details. The jacket features dual access ‘stacked’ front pockets which have both top down open access & side zipped access. The sleeves are cut in a way that follows the natural curvature of the arm, with a wide chest area that tapers down towards the waist, creating a unique drape to its form. It also has bridged ‘RiRi’ zipper that reverse’s the jacket to a stone wash colour, with a high V cut neck that follows through to create the hood.

From the iconic Fall Winter 2001 Neil Barrett season that showcased an impressive variety of technical/functional garments with unique design properties. Jackets with inbuilt bag straps, vests with whistles, hoods with glasses & a mixture of bags for practical accessories such as this ‘Umbrella Holster’ as well as a ‘gun holster’ & ‘camera/phone bag’ all composed of a structured 100% leather that holds its shape. with a nylon strap, velcro fasten & heavy duty chrome hardware clips.

From New York Industrie AW00, the brand is relatively unknown apart from the Kostas Murkudis era. In the late 90s-early 00s the brand produced some amazing pieces such as transformable garments, modern minimalist cuts & unique fabric innovations. This jacket features an oversized (Ninja) hood that is cut to arch over the head, similar to vexed but less obvious. It’s made out of Wool/Spandex panels that are sewn seamlessly to the exterior around the body, with slim tubular cut arms. It has dual zippers, with excess fabric that covers the zippers finishing the seamless look. With seam side pockets, silk lining & an incredible synch mechanism on the sleeves. (slide 9) Buttons on the wrist & an inner piece of fabric with button holes that wraps around the wrist , for an adjustable fit. The fabric composition is extremely unique. A blend of traditional fabric (wool) & a sportier fabric (spandex). Combining these produces an elegant drape/flow to the jacket with a functional stretch. Staff International was running NYI at this time, not Kostas this is a largely overlooked time of New York Industrie as Kostas name is not attached. The deisghner for this season remains unknown…

The jacket features ribbed Leather chest panels, with a dual button/zip closure. Two waist-side Intergrated exterior belts with chrome hardware throughout. With Articulated Panelled arms with web zipped cuffs. In a beautiful boxy classic formed fit. IT50 Perfect Condition Composed of 100% Leather

Designed by Tom Ford for Gucci. This jacket features ‘bag loops’ on each shoulder. Originally paying homage to military jackets that held guns. This functional design detail acts as a secure way to carry bags. Composed of the finest cotton canvas in a dusky sand colour, it’s cut with a wide boxy body & has Gucci engraved hardware throughout. A classic, timeless, well cut & well designed garment.

From Neil Barrett SS2002 collection that featured utility & functionality driven design. Garments with boxy cuts, clean lines with simple minimalist details. Using his previous work experience at Gucci & Prada working with quality materials & tailoring. This collection showcased some of his best work in our opinion. This jacket is pure minimalist luxury, composed of structured cotton, lightly waxed. Featuring a flap front chest pocket that is flush to the body, with double zippers, two seamless side pockets & a key loop at the bottom left for practical use or accessories. Following the functional design elements of this season.

Designed alongside the Emporio Armani FW99 show, this piece shows clear futuristic vision in the Armani Jeans label. Composed of a Brushed Nylon that feels like thick paper with custom aluminium hardware poppers & oversized zipper. Armani Worked on these items personally & combined his tailoring skills with modern fabrics & futuristic style, as seen on the FW99 Runway (slide 5) trench with similar design features. The last slide also shows the Paper nylon fabric & futuristic style of this trench used on a bag on the runway. This feels like your wearing a duvet, But looks like you came off the runway!

This is a sample item that never got to production. During this era of Balenciaga, Nicolas was really experimental with cuts & material as shown in this piece. Along with his magnetic closures & futuristic space age design language. The jacket composition is an amazing liquidised nylon, it’s super glossy & wet looking that creates a great light spectacle. It features seamless construction, with cut out pockets at upper chest & seam zip pockets at the waist. There is a collar zipper to create a hollow for the chin.

From the Iconic Gucci by Tom Ford Fall Winter 2000 Goose-Down Biker Jacket with Buckle to each side that can use to restrict movement like a Strait Jacket made from ‘Articulated’ down filled pipings. This is a puffer variant the orange leather featured in popular Gucci campaigns & on the runway. Composed of a perfect Cotton Nylon blend with goose down quilted ‘articulated piping’ creating a unique & structured look.