A discerning point of Yamamoto's Autumn Winter 2004 collection were the zipper and buckled hardware that modernized his traditional silhouettes. Featuring a back-zip that opens up to the interior of the jacket and another on the interior of the right arm

Composed of a structured Poly Neoprene Blend, the jacket is designed to look like ‘cardpaper’ an unconventional material that seems so delicate but deceivingly the material is so rigid in that basically stands up on its own. From Autumn Winter 2009 by Kostas Murkudis this season he focused on using distinctive fabrics to create a unique form, like a cocoon around the body. In a beautiful duck egg blue colour, it features a high zipped neck with front double zips. Seam side pockets, one large chest pocket, ‘web’ convertible zip cuffs with a unique velcro synch system to the front of the jacket that can create a unique bubble shape.

Designed alongside the Emporio Armani FW99 show, this piece shows clear futuristic vision in the Armani Jeans label. Composed of a Brushed Nylon that feels like thick paper with custom aluminium hardware poppers & oversized zipper. Armani Worked on these items personally & combined his tailoring skills with modern fabrics & futuristic style, as seen on the FW99 Runway (slide 5) trench with similar design features. The last slide also shows the Paper nylon fabric & futuristic style of this trench used on a bag on the runway. This feels like your wearing a duvet, But looks like you came off the runway!

Designed by Roberto Menichetti after he had left Burberry, he worked briefly on the Jil Sander design team & came into founding his namesake brand ‘Menichetti’. This is in collaboration with Brema a famous biking & motocross brand. This specific jacket is part of the motocross inspired casual apparel line released alongside the motocross suits. Using technical materials & practical elements to Menichetti’s distinctive look. Featuring cargo utility pockets throughout including a ‘backpack’ cargo ‘stacked’ 3D pocket. With a synch system on the back, to snatch the waist. With front asymmetric chest ‘panel pockets’ , ventilation zips , velcro cuffs & dual popper & zipper pockets. Composed of a cotton,nylon blend in a beautiful khaki sage colour. A very rare jacket to come across.

From New York Industrie AW00, the brand is relatively unknown apart from the Kostas Murkudis era. In the late 90s-early 00s the brand produced some amazing pieces such as transformable garments, modern minimalist cuts & unique fabric innovations. This jacket features an oversized (Ninja) hood that is cut to arch over the head, similar to vexed but less obvious. It’s made out of Wool/Spandex panels that are sewn seamlessly to the exterior around the body, with slim tubular cut arms. It has dual zippers, with excess fabric that covers the zippers finishing the seamless look. With seam side pockets, silk lining & an incredible synch mechanism on the sleeves. (slide 9) Buttons on the wrist & an inner piece of fabric with button holes that wraps around the wrist , for an adjustable fit. The fabric composition is extremely unique. A blend of traditional fabric (wool) & a sportier fabric (spandex). Combining these produces an elegant drape/flow to the jacket with a functional stretch. Staff International was running NYI at this time, not Kostas this is a largely overlooked time of New York Industrie as Kostas name is not attached. The deisghner for this season remains unknown…

Burberry Prorsum SS00 designed by Roberto Menichetti. A gorgeous example of Menichetti’s material innovation for Burberry. This jacket is crafted with a time-worn look crushed leather, inspired by an old rugby ball Menichetti found. It also features articulated elbows & crushed cotton stretch panelling around the garment that exposes with movement-following the mobility focused design of Menichetti’s work, with hand finished detailings throughout.

From the Iconic Gucci by Tom Ford Menswear Fall Winter 2000 Goose-Down Biker Jacket made from ‘Articulated’ down filled pipingg. This is a puffer variant to our previously posted orange leather featured in campaigns & on the runway. Composed of a thick pearly tan canvas nylon with goose down quilted ‘articulated piping’ creating a unique & structured look. It’s extremely well cut with webbed cuffs & a dual zipper. With integrated piping pockets a neck pop-button closure & hidden stash pockets inside the chest.

From the iconic Fall Winter 2001 Neil Barrett season that showcased an impressive variety of technical/functional garments with unique design properties. Jackets with inbuilt bag straps, vests with whistles, hoods with glasses & a mixture of bags for practical accessories such as this ‘Umbrella Holster’ as well as a ‘gun holster’ & ‘camera/phone bag’ all composed of a structured 100% leather that holds its shape. with a nylon strap, velcro fasten & heavy duty chrome hardware clips.

Designed by Jeff Griffin, in this jacket he experimented fusing travel-wear elements to the pre-existing Griffin identity, known for its British grit/ technically led fashion outerwear for the modern urban adventurer. The jacket features a bag integrated to the back design, with two protruding ‘egg’ shaped pockets to the front (similar to Mandarina Duck (egg cell) pockets). Along with elbow darted articulation, cut to follow the natural curvature of a resting arm. Button closures under each arm to adjust the drape of the jacket. Finishing of with embroidered Griffin ♡ to back of the back & interior Parka Rock Patch. Manufactured In Italy-combat tailored-engineered in London

From Neil Barrett SS2002 collection that featured utility & functionality driven design. Garments with boxy cuts, clean lines with simple minimalist details. Using his previous work experience at Gucci & Prada working with quality materials & tailoring. This collection showcased some of his best work in our opinion. This jacket is pure minimalist luxury, composed of structured cotton, lightly waxed. Featuring a flap front chest pocket that is flush to the body, with double zippers, two seamless side pockets & a key loop at the bottom left for practical use or accessories. Following the functional design elements of this season.

From Menichetti’s 2001 season at Burberry, creating new innovative cuts/fabric blends, modernising classic menswear. Composition : 76% Cotton 22% Nylon 2% Elastane This is most likely a prototype piece made pre-runway but holds many similarities to the runway coat.This has never been seen before. It features a beautiful mid-weight but structured, semi-sheer cotton/nylon/elastic blend which has an incredible weave to it. The weave/colour & structured shape are reminiscent of a cocoon. Delicate yet robust, with hand finished details throughout.

This is a sample item that never got to production. During this era of Balenciaga, Nicolas was really experimental with cuts & material as shown in this piece. Along with his magnetic closures & futuristic space age design language. The jacket composition is an amazing liquidised nylon, it’s super glossy & wet looking that creates a great light spectacle. It features seamless construction, with cut out pockets at upper chest & seam zip pockets at the waist. There is a collar zipper to create a hollow for the chin.

From the Iconic era of Tom Ford at Gucci, this FW00 Biker Jacket is made as a puffer version to our previous post, the runway quilted leather.(slide3/6) composed of a thick canvas nylon with goose down quilted piping creating a unique & structured look. It’s extremely well cut with webbed cuffs & a dual zipper, integrated piping pockets, neck pop-button closure & hidden stash pockets inside chest.

Designed by Tom Ford for Gucci. This jacket features ‘bag loops’ on each shoulder. Originally paying homage to military jackets that held guns. This functional design detail acts as a secure way to carry bags. Composed of the finest cotton canvas in a dusky sand colour, it’s cut with a wide boxy body & has Gucci engraved hardware throughout. A classic, timeless, well cut & well designed garment.

This item featured on the FW00 Runway from Naoki Takizawa’s third ever showing for Issey Miyake, Takizawa opted for a more utilitarian look than his two previous shows, placing a big emphasis on functionality. The runway was heavily inspired by the theme of travelling, & was Issey Miyake’s answer to other travel focused brands like Samsonite & Mandarina Duck. Featuring ‘Modular Pack-Pockets’ which reverse to the outside hence the ‘X-RAY’ name. Composed of an extremely rigid Nylon Thinsulate Fabric that can literally stand up on its own. With pockets & harness straps dotted throughout the jacket to improve the garments practicality & fit. With an integrated retractable hood that’s attached to a separate compartment in the neck, the hood is held by a thick cotton band & tucks away fully into the back neck compartment, creating a pillow for the wearers head.

This jacket packs down into a bag, it features a strap hidden in a front pocket allowing the jacket to invert inside of the pocket & tuck down into a wearable bag. The strap is a great integrated system which can be styled many ways… wrap round the waist to create a unique more feminine silhouette to a men’s jacket, or to wear around the neck or across the body to create more asymmetrical looks. Designed by Tom Ford for Gucci’s Spring Summer 1999, this season featured sportier looks/fabrics.

From the iconic time of Roberto Menichetti’s time at Burberry Prorsum Collection. Creating Minimalist Mibility centered garments from a standpoint of Burberry’s traditional cuts. this Blazer is composed of the softest treated leather with a stretch elastic blend.